3 days, 2 nights
For our summer holidays we decided to do our first backpacking trip together in the French Pyrenees. Since we love going on hikes and wild camping together, the logical next step was to plan a multi-day journey. 3 days and 2 nights, to be exact, long enough to get a taste of what backpacking is like in the mountains with a 50L pack weighing about 10-12kg.
A few months prior, we had taken to the internet to search for information about how to go on your first backpacking trip. Backpacking, as it turns out, is like a lot of other trips where it’s a good idea to have a decent level of preparedness. Unlike other trips though, there are some unique challenges that will need to be overcome.
So, we set our minds on figuring out the what, where, when and how of this adventure.
During our research stage, we ran into a slight roadblock. There seems to be an endless online debate to define the differences between trekking and hiking. To make matters worse, we live in a country where English isn’t the primary language which adds more confusion.
After a bit of research, we were able to find clear-enough explanations from various sources that seemed to match. Essentially, the difference between these words lies in the duration and complexity of the activity.
Hiking is a recreational walk along well-marked and defined paths, usually of short or medium distance, and which can be done in a day.
Trekking, on the other hand, is longer and more challenging, lasting several days, with a greater emphasis on exploration and adventure. During trekking, you spend the nights in high mountain bivouacs or shelters and there isn’t always a clear and defined path to follow to your destination.
Backpacking is an outdoor adventure that involves carrying all of your gear in a backpack while hiking through wilderness or remote areas for multiple days, usually on well-defined paths and trails.
We knew what we wanted to do and now it was time to work out some of the main points of our trip. Western Europe has many mountain ranges and national parks that are great for backpacking so we knew we would stay around these parts.
However, wild camping outdoors is not allowed in all countries and in some national parks you will have to sleep in mountain lodgings. It is important to abide by the rules and laws of each country as those rules are there for a reason and breaking them can result in some hefty fines or worse.
Seeing as how we have family in France who love to do these things, we turned to them for advice and they helped us come up with a solid plan. Our best option was to go with them and learn along the way.
The Pyrenees sounded like a solid option and we decided to do our backpacking trip there. With different levels of difficulty, altitude (elevation gain) and distance covered, we had many good options to choose from.
As we were in good physical condition but not used to long hikes such as this, we decided to plan a 3-day/2-night route in the area surrounding Bagnière-de-Luchon, with part of the route passing along the GR-10.
According to our research, the best months for backpacking in Europe are usually mid-June to mid-September. Basing off this information, we chose to do our backpacking trip in early September, when the nights are generally not so cold.
Keep in mind that the weather in the mountains can change at the drop of a hat, and it is essential to check the weather before you set off. We were very lucky as we had exceptional weather during the day and very pleasant nights.
During the course of our hikes, we would pass by a few mountain lodgings where it was possible to book a room for the night and have showers and food. However, we wanted to rough it by sleeping under the stars. This was our sleep system:
In most regions, visitors are allowed to set up their bivouac or lightweight tents in any appropriate spot on public land, adhering to the basic regulations related to coastal zones, and specific local prohibitions.
Typically, bivouacking is meant for a one-night stay and is allowed from 7 pm to 9 am, although local ordinances might adjust these times slightly. It is mandatory for campers to ensure they leave no trace upon departure.
In order to enjoy our backpacking in the French Pyrenees without crushing our feet and backs, we needed to take only the essentials. Forget about changing your clothes every day, carrying a toiletry bag for showering, warm pajamas for the evenings and board games for your free time. The idea is to connect with nature with as little as possible on your shoulders.
We went with a 50L backpack (enlace articulo) with the following items:
With all this stuff, our backpacks weighed between 10 and 15 kilos (22 to 33 lbs). Not bad, but it could definitely have been lighter. Our camping equipment was not the most suitable for backpacking. For future backpacking trips we will definitely think about investing in some lighter gear if it’s within our budget.
Finally, after all that time, research and preparation, we were heading out to go on our first backpacking trip!
During the months leading up to this, we would go on day hikes almost every weekend and on several overnight camping weekends.
We felt somewhat ready and prepared to do this…
Coming up, we’ll share with you the details and some insights on our 3-day backpacking trip in the French Pyrenees. If you want to go on a similar adventure, feel free to use any or all of the info we’ve provided here to help you plan your own adventure.
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IBP Index Score
average of all 3 days
Enhance your next outing with this compilation of free resources and downloadable files we’ve created. Check them out and see what might be useful for you.
Scan or click on the QR Code to follow our trail in the Wikiloc App and give us a follow while you’re at it!
Scan or click on the QR Code to follow our track in the AllTrails App and give us a follow while you’re at it!
Download this PDF map of the area and print (A3 scale) or save it to your smartphone:
⬇︎ TopoMap Midi-Pyrénées – Granges d’Astaur – Luchon Superbagneres
It is important to note that this is not a round trip and you will need two cars.
The first car was left at Super Bagnière station, our final stop. The second car is left at the Granges d’Astau car park, the starting point of our tour.
The first day was the shortest and easiest of the three. It is a very well-known and popular trail in the area, especially during summer. We decided to do this first stretch to “warm up” our legs and get used to walking with the backpacks on. If you find this route difficult, it’s a good idea not to go beyond this first day.
The trail itself is a short 4-km (2.5 mile) route with about 350 meters (1,150 ft) of elevation gain, very well-marked and which we completed in less than 1.5 hours. Pacing felt much slower with a heavy backpack.
Regardless, the trail is beautiful, and the arrival at Lac d’Oô left us… speechless. This lake, with its stunning 275m (900ft) waterfall, and knowing that we would be sleeping in front of it, made the day’s effort more than worthwhile.
We pitched our tent just outside the Lac d’Oô shelter. There are other sites further up the trail if this one is taken. However, the good thing about being so close to the shelter is that there is access to the outhouse and a small water fountain nearby.
Alternatively, you can climb a little further up to the Lac d’Espingo refuge which would lengthen the first day’s hike and shorten the second. We decided to stay at Lac d’Oô for the first night so that we could sleep in different places.
We got up at the crack of dawn to collect the tent, have a bit of breakfast and get started on our second day. The earlier you get up the better, as you’ll have the whole day to do the hike and take advantage of the cooler morning temperatures.
By far, the second day was the hardest for us with 11.50 km (7.1 mi) and 1150 m (3,773 ft) of elevation gain. There were some rocky sections where the weight of the backpack could easily throw you off balance. However, it was definitely the most beautiful stretch of the hike and, despite the difficulty, we enjoyed it very much.
We passed by lakes and cascading waterfalls, all the while surrounded by 3000m (9800 ft) peaks, until we reached our highest point: Lake Portillon (2580m) and its gorgeous turquoise hue. There we stopped at the refuge to have a bite to eat and rest before doubling back along the same route.
The descent to Lake Saussat felt long and tiring. We stopped at this lake to set up camp because there was a good spot just a few steps from the lake. The chance to bathe on the shore of this alpine lake after a hot day was irresistible.
As an alternative, you can walk down to the Lac d’Espingo refuge and pitch your tent there or book a room. They are only a few metres apart.
Tip: During this part of the hike you can find several water points (springs) to fill up water bottles. This is an important detail not just because water is important, but also to avoid carrying too much water and increasing the pack weight. Don’t ask how we know, just trust us on this.
On the third and final day, we got up early to catch our last sunrise, gathered up our gear and headed down to the Espingo Lake Refuge. Here, we were able to use the outhouse bathroom and the water fountain to fill up our water bottles.
An important detail about this stretch is that there is one, maybe two points where you can get water, and it all depends on the season. So, when you have a chance to get some water, take it.
This 12km (7.5 mi) route has 740m (2,427 ft) of elevation gain and 880m (2,887 ft) of elevation loss, including a 3-km (1.8-mile) stretch of fairly steep descent. We climbed two smaller peaks, the first at 2275m (7,464 ft) with an unbeatable view of Lac d’Oô and the second at 2277m (7,470 ft).
The first was the most difficult, with its endless switchbacks, but also the most rewarding to enjoy the morning views.
Indeed, the hike is quite beautiful, but getting to Super Bagnère felt long and tiring. The 3km descent after the second summit killed us and we were starting to feel tired. Money can buy a lot of things, but the joy on our faces when we saw the Super Bagnière car park was priceless. It is also possible to leave the car in the nearby town of Luchon and walk down. To do this, you have to add several kilometres of steep descent. After three days of walking, we were really glad we didn’t have to do that.
For a first backpacking experience, we enjoyed it very much, we saw incredible landscapes and in three days went through many emotions. We recommend it to everyone who loves hiking and adventure. It is an experience you have to have at least once in your life and for a first time, this route through the French Pyrenees is ideal.
Let’s just put it out there and admit that we weren’t in as good of shape as we thought.
When we decided to do this it was already late April, which gave us more than three months to train and get in good physical shape. We went to the mountains every weekend to hike, climb and canyon, but the reality is different.
Next time, we will think of taking a more focused approach to our physical training.
Also, doing these activities with a 50-liter backpack is not the same as with a lighter one. There is definitely something to be gained by having lighter gear on your back.
Now that we know which areas we can improve on, we are trying to make the necessary adjustments and planning our next backpacking trip! We would love to hear your thoughts in the comments about our experience and any recommended backpacking trips that we could take in the future. 😊
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Warning: Mountain sports are inherently dangerous and a mistake can get you seriously hurt or worse! The information we post in this blog is only meant to be a guide, and should by no means be considered professional advice. If you lack the skills or are unsure about what you’re doing, hire a professional guiding service to teach you hands-on. We will do our best to provide links to trained professionals in the area wherever possible.
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